Zoom in on any of the Bay’s numerous waterfront restaurants from now until the first frost and you’ll see happy people—very happy people, stuffing their happy faces with seafood. Little wonder! After one of the grayest, wettest and l-o-n-g-e-s-t winters on record, we all crave natural light, a water view and the Bay’s bounty. For those anxiously anticipating their initial body piercing of this season—by a crab shell, of course, we offer the first in a series on waterfront restaurants.
Cantler’s Riverside Inn, 458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis, 410-757-1311. www.cantlers.com.
“I’ll have a dozen large crabs, side of fries and slaw.” You’ll hear this mantra repeated countless times from now until Thanksgiving at Cantler’s, perched above scenic Mill Creek. For many, it is the sine qua non of crab houses, serving the locally harvested crustaceans roughly from May through October. When supplies are low and during the off-season, the crabs’ Carolina and Gulf brothers and sisters are imported. Crab cakes, softshell crab sandwiches, crab soup (see a pattern here?) and simply prepared fish are all sound choices if you don’t feel like crackin’ crabs. Head for a table on the deck to watch the boats and catch the occasional breeze. If you can’t stand the heat, opt for the covered patio or air-conditioned dining room (no view). Arrive early, especially on weekends. The line waiting to get in often approximates a presidential motorcade. Kids can order a hot dog, hamburger or fried shrimp. Be sure to show them the shedding boxes beneath the restaurant where the crabs “strip.” Open daily for lunch and dinner. Free boat dockage.
Carrol’s Creek Cafe, 410 Severn Ave. in Annapolis City Marina, 410-263-8102. www.carrolscreek.com.
Sip your favorite sundowner at the outdoor bar, graze on hors d’oeuvres and light fare, or dine on a full-course meal. The Carrol’s Creek deck is ringside for watching the sun dip into the Severn. The view of Spa Creek, downtown and the USNA is unsurpassed. No wonder this place is always packed. When the thermometer soars, I suggest a window table indoors where reservations are a must at dinner. The fish and seafood are consistently good, if a bit pricey. Try the baked rockfish, macadamia nut-encrusted mahi-mahi or jumbo crab cakes if you can’t decide. The Caesar salad, Carrol’s Creek salad (baby greens, dried cranberries, blue cheese), grilled Texas BBQ shrimp and cream of crab soup are winners, as is the grilled (fresh) tuna sandwich with wasabi mayo. Come here to watch the Holiday Lights Parade in December and for Happy Hour weekdays. Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.
Chart House, 300 Second St., 410-268-7166. www.chart-house.com.
If you’re fortunate enough to nab a window table in the lounge area, where the water nearly laps at the windows, you’ll have a front row seat for the passing boat scene (especially the AYC Wednesday Night Race Series). That’s why I prefer grazing here on “light” fare (like the divine, 6-million-calorie, thick-as-custard cream of crab soup, lobster spring rolls or crunchy coconut shrimp), than eating a full-course meal in the large dining room where the views are less spectacular. At dinner try the coconut shrimp, broiled scallops, or lump crab cakes. Some build a meal from what may be the world’s largest salad bar. Save room for the chocolate lava cake, disgustingly decadent and delicious. The Chart House recently underwent a total makeover, owing to the ravages of tropical storm Isabel in September ’03. Reservations are a must in the dining room. The lounge is strictly first-come, first served. Be forewarned: Hard-shell crabs are not on the menu. This is a “nice” restaurant, so leave the flip-flops and stained T-shirt behind. The kids’ menu features hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken tenders and the restaurant’s signature coconut shrimp. Open for Sunday brunch and dinner daily.
Mike’s Crab House, 3030 Riva Rd., Riva. 410-956-2784. www.mikescrabhouse.com.
Mike’s is to the South River what Cantler’s is to the Severn. Heated discussions will probably continue into the next millennium and beyond over which has the better setting, food, and ambiance. We’re not touching that one. We will say that Mike’s is a colorful scene, with more powerboats, tattoos and big hair. The large wrap-around deck is packed on warm-weather evenings. If you have your heart set on Large or Jumbo crabs, go early. Nothing is more disappointing than hearing, “All we have is Mediums.” The softshell crabs and simply prepared fish entrees are more than adequate. The salad bar is best ignored. Many of the attentive servers have been there forever and seem to relish their roles. Although there is frequently a wait, and reservations are not accepted (except for large parties), the time passes quickly enough at the Tiki bar where the people-watching is almost as good as the crabs.
Stay tuned for more waterfront restaurants in the coming months. Please let us know your favorites and how our suggestions measure up.
By Beth Rubin
I find Ms. Mehrabi’s comments re “power boats, tatoos and big hair” at Mike’s Restaurant rather snobbish and really not typical of what I have seen there. Is she saying it’s a redneck place and that power boats are for rednecks?
Too bad a real Annapolitan didn’t get this job. She missed several other waterfront restaurants in Annapolis.